A Foot Traveler’s Tale: Discovering Guwahati’s Hidden Trails
“Over every mountain, there’s a path, though it might be hidden from view down in the valley.”
Ever since I was a kid, the great outdoors have always called out to me. Growing up in Guwahati, with the Brahmaputra River flowing by and the Shillong plateau towering in the distance, I was surrounded by natural beauty. This ancient city, once known as Pragjyotishpura, was the heart of the Varman dynasty centuries ago. Today, Guwahati stands as the gateway to the mesmerizing landscapes of North East India, with hills that offer the perfect escape from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Living in Guwahati, with its never-ending urban chaos, the temptation to hike up one of the many surrounding hills was something I could never resist. Let me share with you my journey to two such places that offered me a refreshing break, reconnecting me with nature’s wonders.
First up is the Radio Tower Hill near Narengi. You can’t miss this prominent feature in Guwahati’s landscape. Situated at around 430 meters above sea level, this hill is part of the Amchang Wildlife Sanctuary, a vital green lung for the city. One fine day, I decided it was time to tackle this hill, with its serpentine paths leading to an eagle’s eye view at the top.
The journey began at Birkuchi, not far from the OIL’s Pipeline Headquarters. The initial climb was steep, but the paved road made the hike manageable. As I ascended through the dense vegetation, primarily teak trees, I stumbled upon a Shiva temple nestled in the thick foliage. According to locals, this and another temple at the hill’s peak, Sri Sri Burha Goxai Thaan, are sacred spots visited by many devotees during religious occasions. After paying my respects, I continued the climb.
Now, if you ever decide to hike up Radio Hill, I’d suggest going with a group. The hill is close to a wildlife sanctuary, and the frequent elephant droppings are a reminder of the animals that roam these parts. There’s also a chance of encountering a leopard, so it’s best to stay vigilant. Sadly, litter—everything from plastic packets to liquor bottles—indicated that the area has also become a hangout spot for less-than-savory characters.
As the climb grew steeper, exhaustion set in, and I couldn’t help but wonder why such beautiful trails aren’t better protected. This wasn’t my first time up the hill; I had previously ridden my trusty Enfield to the top, which was less tiring but equally thrilling. But this time, the last half kilometer tested my endurance, with a sharp gradient pushing my limits. Yet, as soon as I reached the summit, all my weariness vanished, replaced by the invigorating mountain breeze and the stunning panoramic view of Guwahati.
From the top, I could see the mighty Brahmaputra River weaving through the city, heading toward the sea. In the distance, the Nilachal Hills stood tall, home to the revered Maa Kamakhya Temple, where devotees flock year-round, especially during the Ambubachi Mela. The sprawling green canopy of the Amchang Wildlife Sanctuary stretched out below, a stark reminder of how important these green spaces are for Guwahati’s ecosystem.
As the sun began to set, I made my way down, mindful of the potential wildlife encounters. With memories that will last a lifetime, I drove back home, eager to share my adventure. A word of advice for fellow hikers: wear proper hiking gear, bring plenty of water, and don’t forget a garbage bag to keep the trail clean. It’s also high time the local authorities took steps to conserve and protect this area, with better signage and perhaps some patrolling to keep it safe from miscreants.
My next adventure took me to another ridge near the “Na mile (9th mile)” area, close to the CRPF Battalion Camp at Jorabat. Guwahati, with the right promotion and infrastructure, could easily become a trekker’s paradise. Just like the popular Kalsubai trek in the Sahyadri region, the hills around Guwahati offer thrilling escapades for adventure lovers.
This particular hike, up a 450-meter-tall ridge, was more challenging than the Radio Hill Trek. The path was less defined, requiring some serious skill to navigate. We started early on a chilly January morning, and after parking our vehicle, we trekked through a small village at the base. Soon, we were surrounded by dense vegetation, trees, and rocks, with the raw beauty of the landscape invigorating our spirits.
This trail also lies within the Amchang Wildlife Sanctuary and felt much more untouched compared to Radio Hill. We had to climb over rocks, jump over fallen trees, and push through grasslands reminiscent of Himalayan meadows. Halfway up, we found another serene Shiva temple, offering a peaceful spot to catch our breath before resuming the climb.
As we neared the top, a rocky precipice offered breathtaking views of Guwahati’s eastern neighborhoods like Khanapara, Beltola, and Basistha. The final stretch to the summit was tough, but the sense of accomplishment made it all worthwhile. At the top, we found an Assam Police Battalion office and a narrow path leading to a cliff, dubbed the “magnetic viewpoint” by a local. The sheer drop here was dizzying, so we didn’t linger too long before starting our descent.
For this trek, I’d recommend bringing along a sturdy walking stick, plenty of water, and some light snacks. The 8-kilometer trek, while challenging, is a delight for any fit individual, offering a raw and thrilling experience that surpasses the Radio Hill Trek.
As I journeyed through these hidden trails around Guwahati, I was rewarded with panoramic views of the lush landscapes that once defined this city. Sadly, these views are slowly disappearing as development encroaches on Guwahati’s natural beauty. During both hikes, our group was the only sign of human life, accompanied only by fluttering butterflies, chirping birds, and perhaps a hidden wild cat keeping a watchful eye.
Will these treks, this greenery, these landscapes last forever? I don’t know. But as long as we hold onto our sense of adventure and commitment to conservation, Guwahati’s green heart will continue to cast its spell on us, like a beautiful symphony that stays with you long after the music has ended.
If you’re looking to explore more trekking opportunities around Guwahati, you’re in for a treat! The region is dotted with several lesser-known yet equally rewarding trails. Here are a few more nearby treks you might enjoy:
1. Garbhanga Reserve Forest Trek
- Location: Near Lokhra, on the outskirts of Guwahati.
- Highlights: This trek takes you through the lush greenery of Garbhanga Reserve Forest, which is home to a variety of wildlife, including elephants. The trek leads to a beautiful waterfall deep within the forest, making it a popular spot for nature lovers. The dense forest, varied flora, and serene atmosphere make this trek a must-do for those seeking a peaceful escape from the city.
- Difficulty: Moderate.
- Tips: Start early to avoid the afternoon heat, and be mindful of wildlife. It’s advisable to go with a local guide or in a group.
2. Chandubi Lake Trek
- Location: Around 64 km from Guwahati, near the Assam-Meghalaya border.
- Highlights: The trek to Chandubi Lake offers a blend of scenic beauty and cultural experiences. The trail passes through lush forests and traditional tribal villages, eventually leading to the serene Chandubi Lake. The lake itself is a tranquil spot, ideal for boating, fishing, or just relaxing by the water. The surrounding hills and the calm lake make for a perfect day trek.
- Difficulty: Easy to Moderate.
- Tips: This trek can be combined with an overnight stay at a local homestay to experience the local culture and hospitality.
3. Mawphlang Sacred Forest and David Scott Trail
- Location: Mawphlang, Meghalaya, about 80 km from Guwahati.
- Highlights: While not exactly in Guwahati, the Mawphlang Sacred Forest and the David Scott Trail are well worth the short drive. The sacred forest is a pristine, protected area rich in biodiversity and ancient folklore. The David Scott Trail, a historic trade route, offers stunning views of the surrounding valleys and rivers, making it a favorite among trekkers.
- Difficulty: Moderate.
- Tips: The trail can be quite long (around 16 km one way), so be prepared for a full day of trekking. Hire a guide to learn about the history and legends of the area.
4. Nilachal Hill Trek
- Location: Guwahati, leading to the Kamakhya Temple.
- Highlights: The Nilachal Hill Trek is a short but steep hike up to the Kamakhya Temple, one of the most revered pilgrimage sites in India. The trek offers panoramic views of the Brahmaputra River and the city of Guwahati. The temple itself is a major attraction, drawing thousands of devotees throughout the year. If you’re in the mood for a cultural trek with spiritual significance, this is the one.
- Difficulty: Easy to Moderate.
- Tips: Early mornings are the best time to visit to avoid the crowds and heat. The trek can be combined with a visit to the temple.
5. Rani Garbhanga Trek
- Location: Near Rani, approximately 30 km from Guwahati.
- Highlights: This offbeat trek takes you through dense forests and small streams, with the chance to spot various birds and butterflies. The trek is relatively unknown, making it ideal for those looking for solitude and a deep connection with nature. The trail leads to a viewpoint that offers a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding landscape.
- Difficulty: Moderate.
- Tips: Carry enough water and snacks, as there are no facilities along the trail. Trekking in a group is recommended.
6. Panimur Waterfall Trek
- Location: Near the border of Assam and Meghalaya, about 150 km from Guwahati.
- Highlights: Panimur Waterfall, also known as the “Niagara of the East,” is a stunning sight, especially during the monsoon season. The trek to the waterfall passes through scenic forests and rural villages, offering a peaceful and refreshing hike. The waterfall is a great spot for photography and enjoying a picnic by the river.
- Difficulty: Easy to Moderate.
- Tips: Best visited during or just after the monsoon season when the waterfall is at its most spectacular.
These treks, each offering a unique experience, are perfect for anyone looking to explore the natural beauty around Guwahati. Whether you’re seeking adventure, tranquility, or cultural insights, these trails have something for every kind of trekker.